VERMACOMPOSTING

Nobody likes me, everybody hates me, think I'll go eat worms. Big fat juicy ones, little slimy skinny ones,hope they don't have germs!"

 

Have you ever felt this way? Most of us have felt "friendless" at some point, but when you do, remember that the feeling will pass. Meanwhile, you are advised NOT to "go eat worms" because that really won't help. However...worms DO help our environment!

Vermicomposting is not only good for our earth, it is a fun and healthy activity for the entire family!
Many gardeners compost both yard waste and kitchen waste with compost piles, sheet composting or some other method during the growing season. Very little yard waste is generated during winter months when cold temperatures make composting difficult. However, usable kitchen waste is constantly being generated and must be disposed of. Vermicomposting is the process of using worms and micro-organisms to turn kitchen waste into a black, earthy-smelling, nutrient-rich humus.
The kitchen waste fed to worms can come from a variety of sources, including

all vegetable and fruit waste ( pasta leftovers, coffee grounds (with filter) and tea bags. Worms may have a problem with garlic and onion skins. Worms have a gizzard like chickens so fine grit should be added to help the worms digest food. This gritty material includes cornmeal, coffee grounds and/or finely crushed egg shells (dry the shells and then crush). Avoid large amounts of fat, meat scraps or bone. A small amount of meat and eggs will provide protein to the worms, but be careful you don't overdo it as this may attract rodents. Also don't be surprised that some seeds may germinate and potato peels with eyes sprout !

Vermicomposting is easy to do:
1. Make a dark house for the worms to live in. A wooden or plastic bin or other non-metal container. The size of the worm bin can be determined by weighing your household food waste for one week (in pounds), and then provide one square foot of surface area per pound. The container depth should be between eight and twelve inches. Bins need to be shallow because the worms feed in the top layers of the bedding. A bin that is too deep is not as efficient and could potentially become an odor problem. A bin 1.5 ft. H x 2 ft. D x 3 ft W is a good size for a household.
 
TIP: If a worm bin is a plastic storage container, never snap the lid shut tight. The lid should lay loosely on the bin. Wood bins allow for a better air movement . For a truly "environmental experience", use an old dresser drawer. If you are allergic to molds and mildew, you may want to keep the bin outside or away from living areas. Molds and mildew are part of the composting cycle that help to break down organic materials and naturally occur in a worm bin.
 
2. Make drain holes near the bottom. Depending on the size of the container, drill 8 to 12 holes (1/4 - l/2 inches) in the bottom for aeration and drainage. A plastic bin may need more drainage -- if contents get too wet, drill more holes. Raise the bin on bricks or wooden blocks, and place a tray underneath to capture excess liquid which can be used as liquid plant fertilizer.

The bin needs a cover to conserve moisture and provide darkness for the worms. If the bin is indoors, a sheet of dark plastic or burlap sacking placed loosely on top of the bedding is sufficient as a cover. For outdoor bins, a solid lid is preferable, to keep out unwanted scavengers and rain. Like us, worms need air to live, so be sure to have your bin sufficiently ventilated

 

 

3. Fill the bin with moist bedding. Bedding can be paper or newspaper shredded, leaves, straw, peat moss or sawdust.
TIP: The bedding for vermicomposting systems must be able to retain both moisture and air while providing a place for the worms to live. Bedding does not have to be purchased and most of us have plenty of bedding resources in our home, office or school. Here are some suitable sources of bedding.

• Shredded corrugated cardboard is an excellent bedding, but is difficult to find.
• Shredded paper like newspaper and computer paper is easy to find, but may dry out quicker than corrugated cardboard. There is not a problem with the ink from the paper.
• Peat moss has a low pH level that may cause a problem for the worms and it is more expensive.
• Commercial worm bedding is available in sporting goods stores, but it is also more expensive.

The amount of bedding depends on the size of the box. A 2-by-2 foot box will need between 4 and 6 pounds of dry bedding, a 2-by-3 foot box will take 9 to 14 pounds. No matter what the size, the bin should be 2/3 filled with "fluffed" prepared bedding (see below). For smaller bins, experiment--if you prepare excess bedding, it can be dried, stored and used another time.


4. Water is needed to moisten the bedding. Place the dry, shredded bedding in a large container and add water until it covers the bedding. Allow the bedding to absorb as much water as possible before putting it in the worm bin. This could take from two to 24 hours, depending on the bedding used. Before putting the bedding in your bin, squeeze the water out from the bedding as much as possible. The bedding should feel like a well-wrung washcloth. Place the bedding in the bin and fluff. Your bedding needs to remain moist. If it is drying out, mist the paper with water from a spray bottle and dampen the bedding again. Change the bedding once or twice a year.
 
5. Add Worms! The worms used in vermicomposting are called redworms (Eisenia foetida), also know as red wigglers, manure worms, red hybrid or tiger worms. They can be order ed through lawn and garden catalogs, purchased at a bait store or of course, dig them out of your own yard.
The amount of worms needed will depend on the amount of kitchen waste generated per day. One pound of redworms will easily take care of each half-pound of garbage. To add worms to the bin, simply scatter them over the top. The skin on the worm reacts to light and they will immediately work their way down into the bedding to get away from the light. Note: Do not use nightcrawlers to stock your worm bin. These worms depend on cooler temperatures and an extensive tunneling system to survive. They will die in your worm bin


6. Feed the worms. It takes time for bacteria to form and the worm bin can quickly become very smelly if too much food, is added to quickly. As a beginning, add a very small amount of gritty material and a small amount of vegetable matter. The worms won't starve because they will be eating bedding as well. Increase the amount of food gradually as the bin becomes established.
The easiest method of adding food in the bin is to spread it in a thin layer on top of the bedding. If the bin is kept in a dark place or covered, the worms will come to the surface to eat. You can also pull back a small amount of bedding in the bin and dump in the scraps. Cover the scraps with an inch of bedding. Pick a new spot each time you add food. If you notice odors, cut back on the amount of food or try chopping the food up into smaller pieces.

7. Keep the bin damp and warm. Add water if the bedding feels dry, but make sure the excess water can drain away. Cover the bin with plastic or a tarp during freezing weather.
Results! The worms will go to work digesting the kitchen scraps and bedding faster than any other compost method, passing the material through their bodies to become "castings", filling the bin with a rich, black natural fertilizer and soil. Compared to ordinary soil, the worm castings contain five times more nitrogen, seven times more phosphorus and 11 times more potassium. They are rich in humic acids and improve the structure of the soil
The worm castings should be removed from time to time to keep the bin healthy. One way to do this is to shine a bright light into the bin. The worms are sensitive to light and will move to the lower layers of the bin. Remove the top layer of casting by using your hands or a sieve. Each time you remove some bedding, the worms will be exposed to the light and they will keep migrating down to the bottom of the bin. Pick out any wigglers or worm eggs (small, opaque cocoons) and return them to the bin. Refill the bin with fresh layers of moist bedding and food. Another method of harvesting composts is "onion bag" method. Visit the City Farmer Web site.

Using the Compost: For potted plants, add a thin layer to the top of the potting soil. You can also add the compost directly into your soil mix when re-potting. In the garden, simply work it into the ground around the base of each plant. The compost is very mild and you won't have to worry about accidental burning or over-fertilizing. You will be the envy of your friends and neighbors by having the healthiest, happiest plants around!
Using the Compost: For potted plants, add a thin layer to the top of the potting soil. You can also add the compost directly into your soil mix when re-potting. In the garden, simply work it into the ground around the base of each plant. The compost is very mild and you won't have to worry about accidental burning or over-fertilizing. You will be the envy of your friends and neighbors by having the healthiest, happiest plants around!